op-ed in the houston chronicle

On January 27, 2012 my op-ed Observing social change, in Houston and Karachi appeared in the Houston Chronicle.

why aren't there any women?

“Why aren’t there any women leaders being remembered today?” Minal asks. She’s happy that she knows more about Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., but is also curious about pieces of history that she still hasn’t learned.

We talk to her about Rosa Parks and play Thank you, Sister Rosa,” the Neville Brothers song that I was introduced to years ago by my friend Robin. If she were a little older, we could plan to take her to see Daisy Bates: First Lady of Little Rock that will be playing at Rice Cinema in a few days.

a room of one's own...

Collaboration can be fabulous but working alone is often under-rated. Susan Cain’s op-ed in Sunday’s New York Times reminds us of how creativity is connected to solitude.

departure...

I head to Karachi’s Jinnah International Airport on December 27, the death anniversary of Benazir Bhutto, who was murdered four years ago. Buildings and cars were set on fire that day as the country shut down to mourn. Check my blog entries from December 2007:

- 2:00 pm, Friday, December 28, 2007;

- 7:00 pm, Friday, December 28, 2007;

- 9:00 pm, Friday, December 28, 2007;

- 29 December 2007;

- 30 December 2007.

performing for "the people"

Yesterday was the much-anticipated PTI-Imran Khan rally in Karachi. I watched some of the performance on television and was amused to see Khan’s speech punctuated by pop music – a good distraction from the mixed messages embedded in Khan’s campaign. (Check Newsline blog.)

a trip to the interior...

I catch a ride to villages outside of the rural township of Sujawal with architect Shahid Khan, CEO of Indus Earth Trust, an NGO that’s working with the coastal rural communities in Sindh and Balochistan. Shahid Khan is training villagers to reconstruct new hutments using indigenous materials after the flooding that devastated Sindh over the last two years.

Part of the organization’s efforts involve education and support of traditional art such as the creation of rillis using cotton rather than polyester that has permeated the region. Other forms of art, drawings on clay, also appear in spaces.

"security"...

On an afternoon visit to the shrine of Abdullah Shah Ghazi, Karachi’s patron saint, I am not surprised that we have to go through a security gate, or that the main road outside the building is surrounded by barbed wires.

memories...

I always enjoy visiting the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in Karachi. Today, I spend some time with Tazeen Hussain, who will be helping out with VBB spring living room art productions.

As I leave the building, I visit the IVS Alumni exhibition and walk through the beautifully constructed building. The basket installation catches my eye, and I am reminded of the times when Dadiamman dropped her basket into our courtyard, and Ammi sent her the garlic or onions she needed to complete her dish.

Her basket was not exactly like the ones exhibited here, but just seeing these roped objects throws me back to a childhood on Jamshed Road.

daily living

We go for a walk late at night at General’s Park. I always cringe when we name the park — Pakistan certainly has a strong history with generals, and to stamp that name upon a great space for families, kids, and multiple activities is a sad reminder of our history. I’m happy, though, to see that roller-skating rink is still in action. On the trail, there’s a good mix of fast-paced walkers, joggers mixed in with a sprinkling of hijabis. They must have been sweating quite a bit.

Earlier in the day, I stop by Ashiana shopping center to pick up a few gifts, and as always there’s a guard at the entrance.

taking off again...

I’ve landed in Karachi after a fairly painless 24-hour journey.

I fly out of Houston Intercontinental Airport’s Mickey Leland international terminal. At the security gates and am asked to raise my arms so guards can take a full body x-ray. This is the first time I’ve had to undergo that process. But I’m luckier than others.

As I buckle my belt and shove my laptop into my backpack, I watch officers escort an older West African woman to a private area to undergo a full body search. Her husband’s gaze is fixed on his wife as she’s led away from him. They exchange words in a language that I don’t understand. I can only imagine what they must be saying to each other.

ideas are bullet-proof...

Graffiti along Allen Parkway.

another minal-ism

Minal stares at a pink bag in a grocery store. She reads the words: Buy me now. Save Texas – purchase your own grocery bag.

She turns to me. “Actually, you can save the world if you don’t cut trees.”

art and rain...

Minal and I start out the day by attending the Houston Fine Art Fair, where we see exhibition booths set up by galleries around the US. One of the highlights for Minal is an inflated sculpture by William Cannings which she can actually touch.

We spend the second half of the day grocery shopping at Central Market. As we sit down on the upstairs patio to eat a fast lunch, we witness a rainstorm, the first in Houston during one of the worst drought periods in the history of the state. In the meantime, though, we are profoundly aware of more flooding in Sindh, which still has not recovered from the monsoons of 2010.

morning meanderings with minal

I love the early hours when I drop off Minal to school. She always has new philosophies that she’s exploring, and we manage to cover a large terrain during our 12-minute drive.

Today, she asks me, “Ammi, is there a king in China?”

I respond with my standard question to her questions: “What do you think?”

She shakes her her head. “No.”

“Why do you think?”

“Because they have a president,” she says.

I lower the windows and a cool breeze blows through the car. Together, we observe the growing numbers of cars, buses and pedestrians along West Gray Street.

She pipes up again: “Why are there more poor people in Karachi than there are in Houston?”

“Hmm. Why do you think?”

This time she does not have a handy response. “Just tell me!”

We then talk about what “poverty” means and how we can identify who’s poor and who is not.

This time she has an answer: “People who are poor have sad faces. And their faces are also long.”

We have reached her school by now, and before she hops out of the car, she reads a passage from a Magic Tree House that she’s been reading. I don’t remember the details, but there’s something about how once in China, scholars were valued, and then people stopped supporting their words and their learning.

eid on hillcroft

This year, Minal participates in Chand Raat festivities. We meet friends at Hillcroft, and Minal gets mehndi on her palms. On Eid itself, I cook up a feast, and Minal collects both rupees and dollars for eedhi.

gearing up for VBB's season opener

We are gearing up for VBB’s season opener. The flinging of my chappals across the electric wires on Dowling Street is the formal launch of the project. Don’t miss the show – October 22, 2011.

my essay in dawn's books & authors

My essay “Devouring Mangoes with Gusto” appeared in Dawn Books & Author’s special Independence Day issue.

minal-isms

As we listen to Tina Sani’s new album, Bahar Aayi, with Faiz Ahmed Faiz lyrics, Minal says: “I’m so glad you were born in Pakistan so we can listen to this music.”

Earlier in the day, she comments: “How do squirrels know their partners if they all look the same?”

last morning at macondo...

As always, Macondo is a rich gathering with old and new friends. Throughout the week, we are inspired by readings and talks with Julia Alvarez, Naomi Shihab Nye, Esmeralda Santiago, Helena Maria Viramontes—and of course, Sandra Cisneros.

On Saturday morning, I walk past the ducks that squat along the banks of the Elmendorf Lake at Our Lady of the Lake university campus. I drive away, remembering Naomi’s words – “give back fearlessly” – and Julia’s advice that I will hold close to my heart—till next time: “Stay in the storm; stay one sentence ahead of the furies…

a rough journey

Our flight did leave on time but Karachi’s international departure lounge was packed with people with barely enough standing room since all PIA flights were delayed.

By the time we landed in Dubai, it was already 3:00 am Karachi time. The airplane coasted along the airport runway for ten minutes. When the plane stopped, I noticed buses pulling up: There was no chute to connect us to the terminal and we would need to walk down the dark staircase and ride a bus (without seats) for another 15 minutes to the terminal for our onward flight. (I take back what I said in my blog-post from when we flew through Dubai a month ago.)

“Why do passengers from Pakistan have to take buses?” I asked an Emirates attendant, who helped me with my hand-luggage as I carried a sleepy Minal down the stairs to the heated tarmac.

He shrugged. “It’s random.”

“Random?” I held on to the metal rail. “I’ve never taken a flight coming from the US and had to deal with this!”

The attendant did not have a response to my anger.

Today, barely recovered from the long journey, I browse through the blog of one Pakistan’s largest English daily newspapers, Dawn, and come across an essay about Saudi discrimination against South Asians. Though Dubai is part of the U.A.E., and is in many ways different from Saudi Arabia, Asian laborers in Dubai experience similar hardships to those that Ahmed Ali Khalid raises in his blog entry. In a 2006 BBC story, reporter Masud Alam writes about apartheid in Dubai (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/6171909.stm). Our experience at the airport is a microcosm of a larger story, one that hasn’t changed much since Alam’s narrative posted five years ago.